The Year of the Rat
鼠的年

5 February 2008

The Old Codger has survived the worst weather China has experienced in half a century!  To be honest, it wasn't really all that difficult.  This was a piece of cake compared to being married to Old Blister, The Old Codger's ex-wife back in the States.  Now, that old girl there, she was a hell of a storm to weather.  (Oh well, back to sensitivity training again...)

Compared to the weather storms back in the States, this really wasn't much at all as far as quantity of snow and cold weather.  What turned it into a bad storm was five things:

1,  This region of China does not typically experience large snow storms.  It snows one day.  Melts the next day.  End of storm and story.

2.  Because the snow kept on coming, it built up.  Because of reason Number 1, snow plows and related snow removal equipment simply do not exist.  By the time that anyone realized the weather wasn't going to get any better, it was too late.  There was no way that a sudden movement using front end loaders and bull dozers was going to catch up with what had already fallen, and basically turned to ice on the roads.

3.  The snow was very, very wet.  That caused it to build up on power lines and high line towers, and then it froze.  Too much weight from the ice caused numerous high voltage line towers to collapse and power lines to break.  Because many of the towers were now inaccessible to trucks due to the snow, replacement equipment had to be carried in by people.  The lack of power affected the train lines because the locomotives are primarily electric powered.  Diesel locomotives were brought out of retirement and pressed into service, but once again, it was too late.

4.  Because of the large population of China, food is not kept in storage.  It is moved from farm and processing plant fresh.  With the transportation system in gridlock, food can't move.  No one could reasonably see any need to stockpile food, especially perishables.

5.  Every thing hit just as millions of people were heading to their family homes for Spring Festival.  These people became stranded at transportation hubs because of the first three reasons.  They were all in transit. 

More miserable weather is being forecast for parts of Southern and Central China over the next few days which is only going to cause further strains on everything.  Here in Nantong, the weather is expected to break tomorrow, with temperatures being forecast to reach the very low 40's F or 4 Celsius.  Will be like a touch of spring!

Snow plows are now out working.  Front end loaders.  Bull dozers.  People with improvised snow plows - a half a sheet of plywood with handles nailed to it - being pushed by two or three people like a snow plow.  (Rather ingenious, really.)  People with shovels.  Here at the University, they are keeping at least 3 km of interior roads cleaned using the improvised snow plows and dozens of people with shovels.  They go about their jobs with smiles on their faces, laughing, and not minding the cold at all. 

It is as though the Chinese are highly adaptable to the cold.  Very few homes have heaters.  In many homes, the only source of heat is an electric bed pad that they sleep on.  During the day, the doors and windows are open.  People just dress for the cold and go on like it is a normal, every day occurrence.  In direct contrast with that, here are us foreigners, complaining and whinging; huddling around any source of heat that we can find. 

It should be noted however, that perhaps this cold is just a bit too much for some of the Chinese.  The Old Codger was at Lotus today and noticed that just about all of the portable heating units had been sold out.  Successive days and nights of freezing and below freezing weather might be a bit more than even the Chinese are willing to "weather with a smile." 

With the bad weather, the government has issued a "request" to foreigners that they do not attempt to travel anyplace until the weather has settled down.  It is, after all, for our safety.  For The Old Codger, a "request" from the Chinese government is one that he will certainly heed.  Not so much out of fear of the government, but out of common sense.  On Wednesday morning, a friend of The Old Codgers embarked on a bus trip to Nanjing, which is south of Nantong about 250 km - a trip that normally takes three to three and a half hours depending on how crazy the bus driver is.  It took him 12 hours to get there.  Of course, it should also be mentioned that he tried the same trip on Sunday morning, and spent 2 and a half days stranded in the middle of no-where before finally getting back to Nantong.  One might presume that perhaps he is a tad bit crazy, but that would not be the case at all.  He is a Kiwi - from New Zealand.  Nothing more needs to be said.

No doubt, everyone has seen televised pictures of thousands of people stranded and trying to get on trains and other forms of transportation here in China.  You have seen these throngs of people pushing and shoving.  You have heard their voices.  To the casual observer, it may appear that they are angry; almost on the verge of rioting.  Of course, you have seen the military and police there as well - however they don't appear to be prepared for dealing with a mass or large scale riot.  What you are actually seeing is 100,000 people trying to get on a train all at once that can hold only 1,000 people at a time.  The people all want to get home.  You might think that is their motivation for pushing and shoving.  What you are actually seeing is evidence that Chinese people do not know how to stand in queue or a line.  Makes no matter what the occasion is.  There can be three people waiting at a check out counter, and if there is an opening, someone is going to try to get in there ahead of everyone else.

Here in China, Spring Festival officially started on Tuesday, and will last for 20 days.  The new lunar month begins on January 7th this year, which is New Years Day in China, bringing in The Year of the Rat. (鼠的年)   The Old Codger had an invitation to join a Chinese family (consisting in part, of a very lovely lady, but more on that another time) for the holiday in Changsha, which is in Hunan Province.  Because of the weather, The Old Codger is going to have to miss out on that opportunity, and instead will not have much exposure to the traditional Chinese New Year celebration.  Changsha was one of the hardest hit areas, and in the past week, they have had electricity for about 2 days total. 

Over the years, superstitions have played a significant role in many poorer countries, as many people had little else to turn to.  Superstitions are very much in evidence with the Chinese New Year even today.  One Chinese new year custom dictates that you are to wear only new clothes on each of the three days of the new year.  As a result, many of the poorer Chinese will only buy new clothes at this time of the year. 

Of course, the shooting off of fireworks, (which are very cheap here in China for some unknown reason) on New Years Eve is traditional.  It is the Chinese way of sending out the old year and welcoming in the new.  On the stroke of midnight, every door and window in the house must be opened to allow the old year to go out.  One must make sure that all debts have been paid, and that all grudges have been resolved, for it is bad luck to carry those into the new year.  Also, nothing should be lent on that day, as doing so means that the person will be lending for the entire year.  After the old year has been aired out of the house at midnight, many Chinese will go to the temple to pray.  One purpose of the new year festival is to appreciate their family and to pay respects to their ancestors.  That has nothing to do with superstitions.  It is just Chinese culture.

During new years, washing your hair is seen to bring bad luck because the word hair in Mandarin, fa, also means prosperity. So, by washing your hair, essentially you're asking the gods to wipe away all your prosperity for the year.

Some other superstitions or practices for the Chinese New Year:

	Many people will avoid eating meat on the first day of the new year because it is believed that this will ensure a long and happy life.
	Eating a whole fish represents togetherness and abundance
	Eating a chicken with its head and feet still intact symbolizes prosperity.
	Noodles in your bowl should be left uncut as a sign of long life.
	If a plant blooms on New Year's Day, this means the start of a prosperous year.
	The entire house should be cleaned before New Year's Day, thus ridding the house of the years bad luck.  All of the dirt, dust and rubbished must be carried out the back door.  Nothing may be swept out the front door, as that would sweep away the good fortune of the family, or even worse, one of the family members may be swept away.
	On New Year's Eve, all brooms, brushes, dusters, dust pans and other cleaning equipment are put away. Sweeping or dusting should not be done on New Year's Day for fear that good fortune will be swept away,
	After New Year's Day, the floors may be swept. Beginning at the door, the dust and rubbish are swept to the middle of the parlor, then placed in the corners and not taken or thrown out until the fifth day. At no time should the rubbish in the corners be trampled upon.
	People should refrain from using foul language and bad or unlucky words. Negative terms and the word "four", which in Mandarin sounds like the word for death, are not to be uttered.
	Death and dying are never mentioned and ghost stories are totally taboo.
	References to the past year are also avoided as everything should be turned toward the New Year and a new beginning.
	If you cry on New Year's Day, you will cry all through the year. Therefore, children are tolerated and are not spanked, even though they are deserving of such.
	Red clothing is preferred during this festive occasion. Red is considered a bright, happy color, sure to bring the wearer a sunny and bright future. It is believed that appearance and attitude during New Year's sets the tone for the rest of the year.
	Married couple give children, unmarried friends and close relatives are given little red envelopes with crisp or new bills inserted for good fortune. The recipient then has to make a wish for the gift-giver, setting off the cycle of fortune.
	The first person one meets and the first words heard are significant as to what the fortunes would be for the entire year. It is a lucky sign to see or hear songbirds or red-colored birds or swallows.
	It is considered unlucky to greet anyone in their bedroom so that is why everyone, even the sick, should get dressed and sit in the living room.
	Do not use knives or scissors on New Year's Day as this may cut off fortune.
	For those most superstitious Chinese, the Almanac should be consulted to find the best time to do important things. The Almanac would tell you that if the day is a good day or bad day to have a funeral, sweep the graves of ancestors, worship the dead or move an ancestor's grave; start construction, move into a new house, visit friends or even travel north; get a haircut or cultivate plants. etc. etc.

 It would be interesting of course, to see how many of these superstitions or traditions, depending on one's point of view, are actually being followed in urban China today.  The Old Codger would suspect that they are more closely adhered to in rural China than in the urban areas.  Hopefully, The Old Codger will have good luck in the new year so that he will still be around to properly celebrate a Chinese New Year. 

Yesterday, the University is took The Old Codger and the other teachers out for lunch, for new years.  A very nice gesture.  The weather was warm, (OK - warmer than usual) so turned out to be a nice outing.  After being confined close to home for a week or so, it will be nice to get out again.   Even though slightly above freezing, it was like spring had arrived.  Along the streets, some Chinese had moved their table and chairs outside and were happily sitting there playing cards which is a common sight in warmer weather.

The other night, The Old Codger had a nightmare.  Very, very bad dream.  He dreamed that Captain's Bar and Grill had been demolished in some sort of freak accident.  A very traumatic dream that was, and very realistic.  Given that the weather was warm, The Old Codger decided to meander over to where he hoped, and was praying, Captain's Bar had always been.  Fortunately, and to his relief, it was still there and open for business.  Since he was there already, and since the place was still standing and open for business, The Old Codger decided to go on in and have just one beer.  Those that know The Old Codger, know instinctively that is not possible for him - just one beer, but his intentions were, as always, pure and honorable.

Sitting there, barely into his first beer, he was pointedly asked by another patron if he was, in fact, The Old Codger.  He confessed that he, in fact, is The Old Codger, not quite knowing what to expect after that.  Apparently a number of foreigners in Captain's had been asked that question. 

Turns out that a number of foreigners with the shipping industry here in Nantong had been trying to figure out who The Old Codger was or is.  One of them had discovered the site while searching for some information on Nantong, and it has quickly become one of their favorite web sites.  Even their Chinese staff enjoy the web site and the letters from China.  The Old Codger might have to consider putting out a Chinese edition. 

Soon, The Old Codger hopes to have a section up with pictures taken by someone else on some other parts of China during the big storm of 2008.  Not quite sure where they all will be, but everyone will be given a link to them. 

老 Codger 会想感谢大家参观, 和祝愿大家每健康, 愉快和兴旺的新年。

Translation:  The Old Codger would like to thank everyone for visiting, and to wish everyone a healthy, happy and prosperous new year.

The Old Codger

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