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Wolf Mountain in Nantong

9 July 2008

While, as we discovered in the last Letter From China, it ain't easy being The Old Codger, that does not necessarily mean that things are tough all the time.  After the last letter, The Old Codger received numerous comments along the lines of "I really admire your patience" and "I certainly am convinced that I couldn't live in China."  Yes, at times it can be a bit of a challenge, it isn't always all that challenging for the most part.  Some days actually go along without any hitches or hiccups at all.

Last week The Old Codger had dinner with some of the parents of the students that he will be tutoring this summer at a local restaurant.  This is the same restaurant that serves drunken shrimp.  He met a couple of the students, who should be interesting to teach, and who will have their first experience with a foreigner.  At the end of the meal, one of the parents gave everyone one of the famous "Nantong Whistling Kites".  While the kite is very small compared to some of the gigantic ones that the locals fly, it is interesting to actually have a miniature version of one.  


A Nantong Whistling Kite

Last night The Old Codger celebrated his birthday at Captain's with a number of people from various walks of life.  Even though people were instructed not to bring any gifts, for the simple fact that The Old Codger probably won't live long enough to really enjoy or use them, some people did.  A good time was had by all, though The Old Codger had to struggle through the last part of the party suffering from a very significant and acute gall bladder attack, which means his presence at the party was cut short.  That puppy is going to have to come out one of these days...  Or, alternatively, The Old Codger is going to have to change his life style.   Nah.  Gall bladder has got to go. 

Despite the ravages of last night, The Old Codger decided to make a trip to Wolf Mountain today.  On a clear day, which is fairly rare in Nantong, he can see the Buddhist Temple - Guangjiao Temple of Langshan - from is kitchen window, about 4 km away.  The temple was built in 669, when the mountain was surrounded by the Yangtze River.  The temple actually consists of 6 buildings with the one at the top officially known as the Monastery of Zhiyuan Pagoda, which was built in the latter part of the Ming Dynasty. 

(To enlarge any of the pictures, click on the picture.)

The area around the base of the mountain is well landscaped, and a small tributary of the Yangtze River.  The picture at the right depicts a bridge which apparently has been designed to be handicapped accessible.  Notice the ramp in between the stairs.  A very nice and considerate touch, until one remembers that they are in China. 

Note the stairs that are clearly not handicapped accessible in the next picture.  These stairs are immediately after the handicapped accessible bridge. 

Admission to the grounds this time of year is 20 RMB, except for students.  The Old Codger tried to use his University ID for a discount, which was not acceptable.  At least, unlike in Thailand, they don't charge foreigners more than the natives. 

The building after the non-handicapped accessible stairs is a scholar's pagoda, where there are bass relief images of old scholars from the Nantong area.  Very well done and quite realistic.  Surprisingly, The Old Codger is not depicted in these scenes - yet.

 

Since the name of the mountain is "Wolf Mountain" it is only appropriate that there is a statue of a wolf.  No one really seems to be able to agree on how the wolf relates to the mountain.  One story is that the mountain was inhabited by wolves when it was surrounded by the Yangtze River.  One thing is clear today though:  There aren't any wolves in the area anymore, no doubt having made their last appearances on various dinner tables. 

As with all tourist attractions, there is a nicely detailed map on the grounds to help visitors find their way around.  A photo of the map depicts that it says in English that it is the "Langshan Tour Guide."  Once again, please be gently reminded that this is China.  The title may be in English, but everything else on the map is written in Chinese.  Fortunately, The Old Codger had a former student with him, Lin, who had never been to the mountain before, so it was a learning experience for both of them.

Progressing on, the next item is Luo Binwang's Tomb.  Luo is called one of the "four wits" of the early Tang Dynasty.  In 684 he was one of the leaders of a uprising against Empress Wu Zetian.  He was defeated in the uprising, and fled to Nantong.  Most of his poems were "indignant," but even the Empress praised his writings.  His tomb was moved to the current location on the south side of Langshan during the Quing Dynasty. 

As we moved on, we encountered the stairs leading to the top of the mountain.  It is a tough walk up the stairs - about 2,000 feet or more, and someone did have a sense of humor.  At the first or second landing they installed a scale so one can check their weight on the way up, and again on the way down.  The further one gets to the top of the mountain, there are vendors selling everything from water to live turtles (signs of good luck) to fireworks and incense.  Incense is a vital necessity for Buddhists. 

About a quarter of the way up, one can get a glimpse of the Yangtze River in the distance.  The buildings at the bottom of the picture all comprise a 5 Star Hotel.  With the temperature about 30 degrees (86 F) and the sun beating down, it was a nice place to rest a bit and enjoy a bit of a breeze. 

The next stop, for another rest, was the Sha Gan Pavillion which honors another revolutionary in recent Chinese history.  He was involved almost exclusively in revolutionary actions from 1911 until his murder in 1913.  He is best known for organizing an attack on the Shanghai Manufacturers Bureau, and establishing the "Socialist Party" in Shanghai.  In 1985, the Nantong Municipality commissioned the "tablet" to the right to commemorate the "martyr's" 100th birthday. 

Finally we reached the top of the mountain.  Just prior to the very top of the mountain was a ticket booth which was selling tickets for 12 Yuan to enter the Temple.  Once again, a subtle reminder that one is living in China.  Only in China will a person be asked to pay 20 Yuan to walk up a thousand steps or so to see a temple, and then be hit up again for more money to actually go into the temple.  When it comes to making money, the Chinese have a monopoly on the game. 

The views from the top of the mountain were good, but there was a bit of haze, so no really good pictures.  It was at the top though, that The Old Codger remembered that someone had told him previously that there was a cable car to take people to the top of the mountain and back down.  The illusive cable car was found.  Cost for a one way ticket is 30 Yuan. (USD $4.37)  For a round trip ticket, it is 35 Yuan. (USD $5.10)  Once again, the Chinese know how to make money. 



As tempting as it was to ride down the mountain, The Old Codger also realized that it is a hell of a lot easier to walk down stairs than it is to walk up them.  He had paid 20 Yuan (plus another 20 Yuan for Lin) to walk up that damned mountain and not be able to see what he wanted to see (the Temple) without paying any more money.  He was going to get his money's worth and walk down that damned mountain.  Fair is fair.

If you have seen one Buddhist Temple, you basically have seen all the Buddhist Temples in the world.  Looking in through the doors of the Temple at the top of the mountain confirmed that belief.  The views of the surrounding lands are nice, but nothing really spectacular, unless the weather was amazingly clear.  The last time that there wasn't any haze (smog) in the Nantong area is reported to have been before the industrial revolution in China. 

All in all, for The Old Codger, going to the top of the mountain was akin to playing 18 holes of golf.  One does it primarily to demonstrate to everyone else that you can ruin a good walk for no apparent reason.

That's the end of this installment from China.  The next effort made by The Old Codger will certainly be less strenuous than today's venture.

The Old Codger

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